Q: I’ve played a Fender ’61 Anniversary Precision the last year or so. It sounds great and is very comfortable to play, but I have drama with the G note on the E string being noticeably “plonky” sounding. A slight truss rod adjustment clockwise moves this down a semi tone. I’m fearing a dead spot… I’ve had a few guys look at it and claim it’s fine, saying the frets are perfect. The nut is okay too. I’ve tried mucking around with a G clamp. No joy there. Unless it’s a big stage with an SVT, the blah G is noticeable. Front of house operators just shrug. Recording seems to pick it up, though in play back it’s not so obvious. It has me stumped. Big round E and F… F#, less so. G… plonk. G# better. A is huge. Thanks for any insight. I’m not ruling out that this could be a Fender thing or that I might be OCD.
A: My understanding is that dead spots happen when the neck vibrates at the same frequency as a certain note, effectively canceling each other out just a bit. It definitely sounds like you either a dead spot that a change in mass can fix (clamp or some other options I’ll mention) or it’s a physical issue with the neck or frets (or, possibly some self-diagnosed OCD).

I’d assume that this has been happening for a while an you’ve changed strings since you noticed it, at least once. You never know, it could be a string defect, although I don’t really know if that could actually effect just one note on the fretboard.
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If everything checks out, it’s time to experiment with mass. Adding or subtracting different amounts of weight from the headstock essentially shifts the dead note to somewhere else. Often, it moves upwards if you add weight and isn’t as noticeable in higher registers.
Aside from the usual “Fatfinger” clamp or good old fashioned G clamp, here are some inventive and less clunky ways to fix it. Fatfinger now also makes brass plates that affixes to the rear of the headstock.
Before doing some of these, it’d be best to suss out what weight seems to solve the problem before just adding a plate or weights to the instrument. Often, just a few ounces will do it (so I’m told).
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Have a question for Damian Erskine? Send it to [email protected] . Check out Damian’s instructional books, Right Hand Drive and The Improviser’s Path.We know, one would rather play their guitar than spend time fixing it up. But if the player wants it to play well, and if they’re going to be able to rely on it for gigs and jam sessions, they should know how to fix their guitar for quick and easy tweaks and repairs.
Occasionally, for reasons neither understood nor deserved, the guitars refuse to sound good, stay in tune, intonate properly, or respond to necessary adjustments logically. Knowing how to fix the small problems with the instrument is an essential skill. It can ensure the long life of the instrument without any issues, and less money spend.
How do you fix dead guitar frets? If it’s one fret that coming loose, then the player might be able to fix it by simply pressing it back. Otherwise, gluing it back might be in order. Giving some relief on the neck can also fix this problem. Alternatively, the truss rod may need adjusting if one is getting dead notes on the guitar neck. Usually, this kind of thing is caused by uneven fret heights. One can use a short straight-edge to check if the frets are level.
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Bear in mind guitar necks aren’t necessarily dead flat due to “relief, ” so the player wants to check each fret relative to its neighbors to find which one is higher than the rest. Before one starts leveling frets, they have to make sure that they are seated. Sometimes just seating the frets will get rid of those high spots that are dead.
The seasons can be tough on the guitar. Changes in humidity and temperature can commonly cause a dead fret. It occurs when the guitar is relatively producing a dull sound, which is not suitable for the ears.
A guitar neck attaches to the guitar body and spans outward, culminating in its headstock. The front-facing side of the neck is called the fretboard or fingerboard. This fretboard is lined with individual metal frets running perpendicular to the neck itself. Hovering atop the fretboard are guitar strings.

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The frets on the guitar are the metal strips placed along the fretboard. The first fret is the metal strip closest to the guitar’s headstock, and then it counts up from there.
If someone told the player to place their finger on the first fret, they would go to the first fret and place their finger right behind the fret. If they told one to go to the fifth fret on the first string with the first finger, one would count up five frets and place their first finger behind that fret on the thinnest string.
A little fret buzz is usually fine for those of us who like low action. Most players tend to draw the line on acceptable fret buzz when that buzz starts to become audible through a clean amplifier.
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Dead frets are deceptive. If one fingers a note, pick the string, and they get no tone or a low buzzing sound, it means that the next fret up is the one that is giving them the trouble.
For example, if one plays a note on the fifth fret and gets no sound at all or gets a wrong tone, it signifies that the sixth fret is the problem. The sixth fret is higher than the fifth fret. The string bottoms out on it beforehand; it touches the fifth fret. The player needs to tap down the corrupt fret. This example can be functional anywhere on the guitar neck. Below are some steps which can quickly fix a dead fret in no time.

Put the index finger on the first string, which is the smallest string, at the first fret, and pluck the note. Ascend the neck, playing each note at the next fret until the player finds the dead fret.
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Put the block of wood on the subsequent higher fret above the dead fret, just near the smallest string. Knock on the block of wood three times with the hammer to drive the fret down.
Resolve the note at the dead fret. If the note is still dead, knock the woodblock again until the note sounds clear. The player might have to slightly pull the string aside to get the block of wood on the fret without pinching the string between the fret and the block.
Resolve the most significant string on the dead fret. If the sound is dead on that string, put the block near the most significant string on the same fret the player is working on—knockdown on the fret on that side.
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Resolve the note and listen. Knock again on the block, if required, to get the note to ring out clear. It should fix the dead fret problem in no time with less effort.

Three conditionalities cause dead frets. Most usually, one fret is higher than the surrounding frets. It will cause the fret shortly before it to be the dead fret. It can occur if the fret comes loose from the fretboard or only was not pressed in as far as the others.
If it’s loose or not fully seated, it can occasionally be determined by lightly tapping it back down with a plastic or brass confronted hammer, but frequently it will be required to be glued down for it to remain in place. Then ideally, it would verify for level with the adjoining frets and adjusted if needed.
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Sometimes one fret was less than the surrounding frets, which got the same effect as though the next higher fret was a high fret. The low fret will be the dead note. The usual fix is to file the surrounding frets down to the lowest fret level, making convinced all the frets to stay perfectly level. Then they required to be re-crowned (made round in profile) and polished.
The third reason for dead frets is when a portion of the fretboard angles uphill go towards the bridges about the airplane of the rest of the fretboard.
It is common on numerous guitars for the frets over the body to go uphill, giving the impacts of one high fret after another, arousing entire groups of frets to be dead.

How Do You Fix Dead Guitar Frets?
It sounds like what is happening with the guitar. Moreover, it can occasionally be rectified with a firmer truss rod adaptation if it is set way too loose, but in general, it just moves the dead area down the neck.
The truss rod is the returning victim of guitar problems. The cause for this may be that it’s easy to access and requires only one tool to adjust on most guitars. Virtually every guitar will experience problems related to a truss rod on
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