Upgrading your bass bridge can have a number of advantages including: increasing sustain, increasing tuning stability, gaining more adjustability, dropping weight, or simply changing the aesthetics of a bass. Whatever your reason is, I’ve created a simple guide to help you get started. Feel free to reply with questions or start a discussion on our blog as you read along.
The first step in the process is to pick which bridge is going to work for your bass. Feel free to contact us about the correct choice, we will be happy to guide you along the way. Best Bass Gear sells top quality bridges including: Leo Quan Badass bridges, Babicz Full Contact bridges, and Hipshot bridges. Max and I have experience installing them on different models of basses and we stand behind the quality of all three of these manufacturers.
Most basses use a bridge with one of the standard mounting hole patterns. To determine which your bass has, you can either measure what is currently installed on your bass, look online to see if anyone else with your bass has swapped out the bridge, or simply asking us to look through our databases (we know the mounting patterns of many brands, but you will often still need to measure to confirm). If you’re able to buy a bridge with your mounting pattern, installation is quite easy.
Looking For Baritone Bridge Placement Help.
Note: If your bass uses a mounting pattern which does not have a direct replacement, new holes will need to be drilled into your bass. We
First, remove all strings from your instrument. Then, unscrew all mounting screws on your current bridge. Remove the bridge and place the new bridge in it’s place. You should have a small grounding wire running from the bottom of the bridge to your control cavity. Before you move on to screwing the bridge in place, make sure the end of this wire will be contacting your bridge. You can then screw down your new bridge and restring your bass.
To set string height you will need all the strings tuned to pitch. Hold the bass in the playing position and measure from the top of the 17th fret to the bottom of your lowest string, while not fretting any notes. The distance between these points should be 3/32″.
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Depending on many factors, including personal preference, you may end up raising or lowering the string past this number, but 3/32″ is a good average starting point I recommend. Different bridges have different ways to raise or lower the strings. Most, like Hipshot and Badass, use two allen screws on each saddle to raise or lower the string. Full Contact bridges use a single allen wrench to turn a cam which will raise or lower the string. Once you have the lowest string set to 3/32″ you should retune the string and check your measurement again. You can then go on to each string until all of the strings are an appropriate height from the 17th fret. Many people set their highest strings slightly closer to the fret than their lower strings.
To test height accuracy, play your bass listening for any string buzz (often signaling a string being too low) and pay attention to how easily you can fret notes (high strings often make playing difficult for some players).
The new bridge. For this you will need a good quality tuner and an appropriate screwdriver to adjust your bridge saddle position. You first want to tune all strings to pitch. Then, you will compare the sound of the harmonic at the 12th fret of your lowest string to the sound of the fretted note at the 12th fret, using as much fretting pressure as you normally use while playing. You will want to adjust your bridge saddle until the harmonic note and fretted note are the same exact pitch.
Instructions On Fitting And Setting Up
Move the bridge by adjusting the screw at the end of your bridge that connects it to the saddle. Tightening this screw will move the saddle away from the neck, while loosening the screw will move the saddle closer to the neck. Repeat these steps on all strings, making sure to tune and retune the strings between adjustments.
I recommend using the Cruz Tools GrooveTech Bass Player Tech Kit because it will help in properly setting string height and intonation and will help keep your bass set up properly. Among other things, the tool kit includes a 6-in-1 screwdriver and steel ruler which are needed to change your bass bridge.
As previously mentioned, if you have any questions, feel free to reply to this email, start a discussion on the eBass blog, or post on BBG’s facebook wall. Either myself, Max, or Chris will respond to any of your questions. Last time (Tuner Replacement Guide) we received great feedback and were able to help quite a few customers out.When you’re building a new guitar or even a kit, the neck position is not always marked for you in advance. Since the neck position may have shifted through your build things may not be obvious and if the bridge is not located properly or within the adjustment tolerance. You will never have correct intonation.
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On pretty much every guitar the bridge should be located so that the break point of the string will be exactly at the distance of the scale length, from the nut. The scale length of any guitar is defined as double the distance from the nut to the 12th fret.
Fret, and the length from the nut to it, the total scale length will determine the position of the bridge and not be determined by it. Whether you build the neck yourself, if you bought a pre-freted one, or its’ the one that came with a kit, measuring the distance from the inside edge of the nut to the middle of the 12
The bridge, or the point where the string leaves the bridge, will be at the same distance as the nut is from the 12
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Fret, on the other side. This will be a little different from the bridge to bridge, depending on type of saddle it has.
You should also take into account the amount the amount of travel and adjustment the saddles have, and have them positioned somewhere in the middle so that they have room for adjustment either way.
Multiscale guitar will usually have a cascading bridge with individual. The simplest way to make out the position of each of the single saddles that make up the bridge is to measure the distance to the 12
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Fret on the low E string, double the distance and find the position of that saddle. Next do the same for the high E string. Make sure you measure along the string line and not the edge of the fretboard (there is a significant difference in multiscale fretboards). Now that you have the two extremes, all you need to do is create a straight line between the two and mark the other four.
Like any other bridge the individual saddles should default around the middle of their travel and may need fine tuning for intonation, after stringing, but this way you will be in the ball park and look good.
Each type of bridge will have a specific way of mounting and that will directly affect the way they are adjusted and set.
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They will usually have the saddles adjusted from the back with one screw per saddle. The saddles may need to be removed for screwing the bridge to the body and after assembly should be brought to the middle (or 2/3 of the way forward) of their travel. This is the position where they should match the scale length. This is also the point where you will want to start the intonation adjustment after stringing the guitar and going through the initial setup.
Original Vintage Strat Bridges as well as aftermarket ones still use a 6 screw row to attach in the front side of the bridge. These screws are not tightened all the way and act as a hinge for the tremolo. The saddles and the adjustment are set and refined the same way as hardtail and Telecasters with a screw at the back. Here too, you want the neutral starting point to be a bit back from the front-most position of the saddle.
More modern style tremolos including Fenders, Gotoh’s, Hipshot and of course Floyde Rose, all use mounting studs to act as both anchors and hinges. These will usually be a pair which will be mounted to the body at the front side of the bridge. Unless you are talking about a direct replacement, they will each have their own diameter and threading.
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Some will have both, but also be aware of metric vs imperial measurements, depending on the origin of the guitar and the bridge. Regardless of the complexity of the bridge (and some of these can get very complex) the point to which you will refer to as far as positioning will still be the saddles themselves.
The TunOmatics and their aftermarket counterparts all have a distinctive shape and mounting studs. These will
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