Hey! Today I'm going to show you how to convert a Rock band or Guitar Hero drum controller into a real MIDI drum set that can interface with digital audio workstations like Ableton Live, FL Studio, Pro Tools, etc.
It is also recommended if you'd like to know the inner workings of the Arduino code, and want a more detailed explanation of the circuit.
I chose to use the Arduino UNO because I only needed 6 analog inputs but if you have more than 6 piezo sensors, then you can go with the Arduino Mega which has 16 analog inputs.
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It's got 3 drum pads, 2 cymbal pads, and a pedal. On the back panel, there's even 2 stereo 3.5mm audio jacks - one of which connects the bass pedal and the other we can save for any further modifications to the drumset.
Also, this set comes with a MIDI input port. Which is perfect, because we'll just save a MIDI jack and rewire this port internally and turn it into a MIDI output port.
After you take out the screws on the back and unhook the controller dock, we can lift the back plate, and access the piezos.
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You can see that the piezos are plugged in directly to the mainboard. The other board on the top just holds the back panel, and all the inputs of the back panel are plugged into the main board directly as well.
First we add some pin headers on the board to match the pins of the arduino, so that we can snap the proto board on top like a shield.
Then we take our pin headers, break them into twos, and solder one end of each of the these to the other end of the resistors. Then we connect the other pins of the headers to ground as well. Now we can just plug our piezos directly to these pin headers.
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We'll need to make a slight modification to the back panel board. By adding a jumper between the two pins pictured above, we can ground the middle pin of the MIDI port which would otherwise be missing for a MIDI output port. We can then plug the last four pins of the cable ribbon directly into our proto board.
Otherwise, you'll need to make adjustments to the definitions at the top of the code as you see fit to your drum set.
I also added some hot glue to the solder joints to prevent it from breaking off in the future from all the drum hits.So, you’ve got one of those Guitar Hero (World Tour) drumsets, and want to use it with your computer? Are you also looking for a fun DIY project involving soldering, electronics, and possibly voiding a few warranties on consumer hardware? Great! Read on.
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I can’t claim all the credit. This project is based on a 2009 article, How to use Guitar Hero World Tour Drums as a real MIDI drumkit, by Mathijs van den Berg. His article proved to be very useful in helping me to initially understand the protocol and devise my plan of attack.
If you read Mathijs’ article (cited above), you already know that the drumset consists of two main components that communicate with SPI; the control box and the drumpad controller. The control box is the box that sits at the top of the drumset. It is specific to each console (the Playstation 3 drumset has a different control box than the Wii drumset, for example). The drumpad controller, inside the drumset, is the circuit board that interfaces the drumpads and cymbals to the control box. The drumpad controller board is common to all versions of the drumset.
It was nice to begin this project with a good idea of what lay ahead, and I’d like to thank Mathijs for reporting his findings. Unfortunately, his post lacked two important resources: the circuit he used to interface with the drumset and his software. Also, I would bet that his solution sacrificed the ability to still use the drumset to play Guitar Hero, which is one of my objectives.
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With knowledge of the basic protocol in hand, I knew that I would need a way to debug whatever I was building to make sure that it was communicating correctly, so I ended up purchasing a Saleae logic analyzer. The first thing I did with it was to record some communications between the drumpad controller and the control box while the system was operating normally. These “control” communications would be important for later when I tried to iron out the details of the protocol and emulate it myself.
In the screenshot below, you can see an example of “normal” communications. Every 10 ms (100 times a second), the control box polls the drumpad controller for information on the pads that have been hit. To do this, it pulls ENABLE low and, 27.5 microseconds later, sends 0xAA (control box communications are on the MOSI line). The drumpad controller simultaneously responds (on MISO) with 0xAA to confirm. About 33 microseconds later, the control box sends 0x55. The drumpad controller responds with the number of drumpads that have been hit since the last time it has been polled.
The four messages I mentioned above can be seen below as the “blips” that have the little ovals above them. If one were to zoom in on these blips, the ovals would grow and display the decoded message.
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When no drumpads have been hit (as is the case in the above screenshot), no further action is required. The control box simply places the ENABLE line high, disabling communications until next time (10 ms later). If a drumpad was hit, then the following happens for each pad hit:
You might notice that even when ENABLE is high (meaning communications between control box and drumpad controller are disabled), there is still chatter. I was wondering about this, so I appealed to the Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange for help. They helped me realize that there were other “slaves” sharing the SPI bus. In this case, the transmitter that communicates between the control box and console (PS3, Wii, etc.) were sharing the communication lines. Those communications can be ignored.
In Part 2, I’ll crack open the drumset and prototype the embedded software and hardware that communicates with it (spoiler: Arduino is involved).
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